@zander I will try and make a video on my next attempt. I just built a work bench 4ft x 8ft x 3/4 ply. I am hoping that will be a stable enough surface.
It may be a few weeks though.
Look forward to hearing any feed-back from my pics and/or video.
@zander Some photos from this weekends pour.
I have made modifications as i am going along. Had to move hinge on the side to make sure the string would go around them.
You can see I try and put more on top, just because of it collapsing just abit. I don't level it off, suppose I could. Wouldn't hurt anything if I did. You can see I have already cut it and opened the panel.
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@HandyDanIn regards to using air Crete for a floor, what reinforcing would you use and how thick would you make it. My current application would be a base for patio pavers but I’m also interested in using it for the floor elsewhere.
I found this but not much else. I tried to reach out to Domegaia and Steve Areene and neither really remember making the magnesium domes.
I will be contacting: https://www.premiermagnesia.com/magox by phone because I haven't heard back from them yet. I have tried to do a cost comparison and it looks like MgO would be more expensive, but it might be worth it. Or still use cement, just a much smaller portion.
@mtman08 Aircrete is not a suitable finish for exterior or interior use. It is too porous and soft for that. However, stucco is a perfect exterior finish application to use on an aircrete structure. Stucco is precisely what I applied to finish the dome we built in Hawi, HI in 2018 and I'm fairly certain that it is one of the more common ways to finish aircrete domes in general. Stucco has the density and resilience required for the job. Think of it as the crust, if you will.
I realize is an old thread- but it seems to me that marrying earth Bering with aircrete would defeat the advantages of thermal mass and necessitate that one pump heating and cooling into the home whereas thermal mass contiguous to the living space will stay closer to the earth temps underground aka 55ish degrees Fahrenheit.
The ideal is enough thermal mass to tsp into this thermal temp moderation and then insulate the exterior.
Traveler, I too have been mixing in a 50gal drum with the hand mixer and found it a lot of work for my 67year old body. What I found was that, for me, the hardest part was getting a thorough mixing of the cement and water only, to be the most demanding. It was hard to get all the cement mixed into the 'slurry', with no or little residue/paste on the bottom of the barrel after I poured it out. (especially since I was doing this myself) What I was thinking, was that mixing the cement in a barrel mixer, assuring that it was well mixed, then pouring that slurry into my 50-gallon drum and adding the foam at that point. I'm new to this and have only done a few test batches, but my first test batches raised concerns with me since in the future I want to add sand 1:1 for a slab and can only imagine it getting more difficult. I guess the next best thing would be to find a 'younger' helper 🙂 Your thoughts would be welcome.
Hi Jim, I guess you turn 69, I'm 66, just find out about this product, maybe we can make a younger guy out of 2 of us, lol,how are you doing there, I'm in NC, and interested to work with this materials, I work on stucco and plaster, special finishes, will like to know how you where doing on your project and if you accomplished anything
Your opinion will be very helpful. Thank you, hopping you are doing great.
@little-pig-store how did the weed mesh work out? I have been using hessian (known as burlap in the US) as the fabric but learnt that it could be subject to wicking or rot so I want to put a second, inert layer over it. Weed mesh seems a likely contender. But advice would be welcome.
@Trevor-Mathewson no I bought up the last of the Seventh Generation liquid imported to Australia (at great cost). Apart from that I found Trucking Blue a truck wash detergent with very strong bubbles that makes a good mix.