@zander I will try and make a video on my next attempt. I just built a work bench 4ft x 8ft x 3/4 ply. I am hoping that will be a stable enough surface.
It may be a few weeks though.
Look forward to hearing any feed-back from my pics and/or video.
So what I came to realize is that in the video where Aircrete Harry discusses the 4 foaming agents and recommends SLS is that the bag he has is different than the product info he printed off Amazon. I ordered off Amazon and just ordered what was on his printout in the video. But the video is only Sodium Sulfate (salt) and thus I had absolute no foam. So I have ordered actually SLS and will see how that goes. It was great to realize the source of the confusion and now I have hope again.. It was so discouraging to have no bubbles at all...
@anthonydjones I wanted to think about your difficulty. Its interesting because the mix ratio is not something generaly blasted out there however in the main on the website is is discussed. Althought the vids are vanishing quickly. I can say its paramount the weight of the foam produced. I have learned that you want to let the finished aircrete set up a bit and take your time. It did help to get ahold of the student handbook. I will be working a second pour and am makeing some adjustments on the proceadure. I plan to vid/ document this. One thing that is definately on my to do list it to attend a workshop. I am hopeing that in the next year they do more on the main land. The travel is a bit distant. Keep working at it and it will happen. Cheers brother Jones
@Zander Thanks, it was a good article I will try out the acrylic bonding agent if I cant get the latex one. I have been very succesfull using your recomendations so I will continue to do so, but like you said it isnt bad to try new things.
@Brian-Spooner about 400 kg/cubic meter or about 25 lbs/cubic foot.
And yes I used water displacement.
High tech tools-
A garbage bag to "protect" the block
a 30 yr old food scale to weigh the block
an empty Kitty Litter pail that holds about 6 gallons
a measuring cup to determine how much water was displaced.
I checked the scale by weighing a half gallon of water (~4.2lbs, a US liquid gallon of water weighs about 8.34 pounds at 17°C )
I filled the bucket to the rim until it started to overflow
put the bagged block in forcing it down to submerge it, and and let the water overflow
refilled the bucket measuring water to refill
known problem areas - the volume of the plastic bag, accuracy of the scale, compensation for temperature and probably many unknown problems.
But my blocks didn't come out perfect cubes and I wanted to get some measurement of density before I went on a trip.
@mundane9 As to height. My design is not a pure spherical dome but more of a Nubian arch. I will have the central compass point for the horizontal dim radius of 10.5'. the vertical radius is offset 3' so it's radius is 13.5' from that 3' offset. Imagine a 13.5' sphere sliced down the middle and slide it 's center over 3'. that is what it will be. I hope this is not confusing but you have your standard pole/chain or what ever you are going to use as a device to set your block and angle. I will make mine adjustable and set each course of blocks with a second "chain" centered on that 3' offset to set my vertical then I just go around with my pole compass device. Really should be simple.
What pitch will the roof be? What snowloads are you planning for? What materials will you use for the roof and siding (how heavy will the barn be)?
Here is an article that discusses various factors to consider when making your pads. I read the comments at the bottom as well. Despite the fearmarketing and fearmongering, this article seems to offer useful perspective.
I suspect that aircrete does not provide enough PSI resistance to be a truly viable pole barn pad in most situations. Perhaps I underestimate it's ability.
@Doc I would say no. I don't have experience with magnesium cement. Further, adding aggregate will collapse the mix. So I thinking refractory air cement is not possible unless you make it with lye and aluminum powder, but then it's not aircrete and doesn't require the little dragon.
However, after the structure is up you could paste on lava stone or actual refractory cement. If fire is the primary design consideration then perhaps an underground structure is the better option or tall earth berms. You could also engineer a battery, pump, water tank sized to burn times and BTU exposure and spray cool it.. Live in field..
I suspect that are aircrete would actually survive a fire but even if it didn't the whole point of all this is cheap housing right?
What's amazing too is that the ports the Romans made are still intacked and some are still being used today! Very cool! I want to try it with the aircrete just having a little trouble finding some in small quantities. Any suggestions?
@usa_philippines Speaking in very rough terms, aircrete can be about 1/7 the cost of concrete. It can also be about 1/7 of the weight, and about 1/7 of the strength. These are rough estimates depending on the technique used. For more info: http://www.domegaia.com/aircrete.html
@MADE not sure what the sand/topping mix is.. it’s usually used to resurface worn or damaged concrete. It just happens to be inexpensive in Hawaii so I figured I would try it lol. $19 a bag for Portland here!
The result was very brittle and flaky.. mostly just crumbled. It was strange because the surface set very fast and hard.. all the sand settled after pouring and fell apart days later 😞