Hi. I can't get the polyethylene fabric used in the Domegaia, but I can get hessian. Is this suitable for covering the dome?
Posts made by noni
RE: 35'Diameter, 2 level/story, Half Sphere Dome In Canada
@Kintore Hi, imagine you are in a hemisphere and walk towards the perimeter. How close can you get before bumping your head. This is one of the biggest benefits of the Domegaia solution - you gain all that space under the curve. The other benefit is aesthetic - it looks beaut!
RE: Foamcrete walls anyone
@Ignacio-DHOME hi Ignacio using fibreglass isn’t something I thought of, so thank you.
I had never heard of fingernail fibreglass before so looked it up. It may be hard to get it in bulk as it only seems to be sold in quantities suitable for fingernails rather than walls! Any idea how to get it in bulk.
At present we’re still planning to try incorporating metal mesh into the walls but instead we’ve been busy finishing laying down the reinforcement rods in the footings.
This has been harder than I expected, because the Domegaia bender doesn’t do rebar. We have been using a hole in a metal upright to put kinks around the bar and repeat the process till we’ve got a shape that fits. Then repeat 11 times to get the 12 rebar strand footings specified by the engineer.
I’ve also been struggling to set up corrugated iron around the sides of the footings. I have made lotsa mistakes. I had the footings dug 35cm wide, as set by the engineer, then realised I hadn’t allowed for the tin sides. So widened the footings with a hatchet - so much work. Then put in the tin. But. When I backfilled the tin bulged into the 35cm space. I’ve backfilled then pulled out the iron, cleaned out the space, put the tin back, putting in some more spikes, back filled again and watched as the iron bulged again. Repeated process, in places up to 6 times.
This time I’m not backfilling. Instead I’m laying in the rebar and then put those plastic seats on the sides of the ligatures to ensure the footings stay upright during the cement pour. The day before the pour I’ll put a small amount of dirt behind the tin - just enough to keep them steady when the pour starts - then run around the site backfilling to stay ahead of the pour.
There may be a better way, but I don’t know it.
RE: Workshop in Australia
Council approval issues with aerated concrete.
When I was considering the dome home I contacted council and was told they’d be happy with any material as long as it was designed by a structural engineer.
The development approval though was a surprise!
There is no national building code for aerated concrete so council’s building inspectors won’t do the progress inspections and certifications required at different stages of the build. These include: inspecting and approving the footings before concrete is poured; reinforced concrete floors etc had to be inspected and signed off by the structural engineer.
For me this would be a huge impost: the engineer is 800kms and two flights each way from Longreach. And three days out of his working week. As a result council has agreed that a local builder can give a verbal report answering the engineer’s queries by phone and we supply photos and videos as required and if the engineer’s happy he’ll sign off on it.
I suppose the moral is to use your local neighbourhood structural engineer (though that’s what I did).
RE: Can you tell me what foaming agent can be used in Australia thanks
@Zander earth choice dishwashing liquid is great. The earth choice laundry detergent however is a disaster. Failcrete all round.
Another good one available in Longreach is
“Trucking Blue. Not only makes fine aircrete but the car sparkles. Might be harder to get out your way. Transporting cattle and mining gear on the highways, unsealed roads and dust paddocks of Outback Oz the only sign of life the a million insects dead on the windscreen, you need a heavy duty cleaner to spruce up.
RE: pouring floor: in sections? Dry sticking to wet?
I just saw this post and in case you’re not already enjoying your new floor I thought I’d share this.
At the Domegaia workshop I attended I n Mazunte, I was concerned by the number of broken and chipped blocks we were producing.
Apart from reassuring me I’d get better with practice, Hijar explained there’d be little waste in the end as all the broken and crumbled blocks ended up in the floor slab. You just pour some fresh aircrete over the top.
So I don’t know if you need to worry about wet and dry sections .
I haven’t got that far yet, but I was going to pour the floor in sections using two wooden forms to make wedges from the centre, like pieces of pie.
I was going to leave it to set for a day.
Then move the forms to create 2 wedges either side of the first. Pour them. And continue till I get to the front door.